Every year I walk in the St. Patrick’s Day parade with my Girl Scout troop. This year I decided I needed a shawl. The Juliette Shawl is perfect for the coming spring, as its open stitch pattern keeps it from being too warm. The circular design keeps it from falling off, so no worries of losing my shawl somewhere on the parade route! Juliette is named after Juliette Gordon Low, the founder of the Girl Guides, which became the Girl Scouts. I used 1 scrumptious Frabjous Fibers Mad Hatter Mini Skein pack to create this vision in green.

4/23/20 I’ve updated this pattern to add stitch markers and just make it easier to follow. For the new sample I used Cascade Whirligig in Reds. This pattern was originally released on 3/12/15.

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Pin 1
Ravelry Link

The yarn for this design was provided by Wonderland Yarns and Cascade Yarns. All opinions are my own.

The original pattern has a Dutch translation by the lovely and talented Marlene van Buuren. You can find the PDF HERE Jessie at home NL, and you can find her awesome Facebook group HERE.

Juliette Shawl

Crochet Pattern
Intermediate Skill Level
Designed by Jessie Rayot

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - 3

Juliette Shawl Supplies

Size:
23″ long

Yarn:
Cascade Yarns Whirligig: (60% Superwash Merino Wool / 20% Nylon / 20% Acrylic), Size 3 (11 wpi DK weight), 546 yds / 200 g (yds/g = 2.73)
Reds 04 – 1 skein, (410 yds / 150 g)
-or-
Frabjous Fibers Mad Hatter Mini Skein pack:
33 Lime to Turquoise Shadow (Color Morphs)

Hook:
US – 7, 4.5 mm
HERE is where I got the hook seen in the photos.

Gauge: Learn about gauge HERE
18 sts x 9 rows = 4” [10 cm] in double crochet

Other supplies:
yarn needle
removable stitch markers

Stitches and Abbreviations: click on highlighted sts for tutorials
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)

Getting Started:
  • Rnd/Row counts are at the end of each row in {braces}, if the count has changed from the previous Rnd/Row.
  • The marked ch-2 is the center point of the shawl, and separates the 2 sides of the shawl.
  • Chs and sl sts are not included in Round/Row counts unless specified.
  • When a marker is placed after a ch 2, it should be placed around the ch 2 space just made.
  • When a marker is placed a st is made, it should be placed around the loop on the hook.
  • When a marker is placed on a st made in the past, it should be placed around both loops of the top of the st.

Juliette Shawl Pattern:

Set Up Rnd: Fdc 86, slip st to top of first fdc to form a loop, stitch bottom of loop seam shut with tail and weave in end. {86 sts}

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Set Up Row
Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Set Up Row Seamed

Row 1: Pm 2 sts to the right of hook, ch 1, skip 1 (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, ch 1, skip 1, sl st in each of next 3 sts, skip 1, pm. {2 dc on each side}

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Row 1

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, dc in first ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, dc in last ch-1 sp, ch 1, sl st in marked st, rm, sl st in each of next 2 sts, skip 1, pm. {5 dc on each side}

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Row 2

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each of next 3 ch-1 sps, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each of next 3 ch-1 sps, ch 1, sl st in marked st, rm, sl st in each of next 2 sts, skip 1, pm. {8 dc on each side}

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Row 3

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, dc in first ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next 4 ch-1 sps, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp,  (dc, ch 1, dc) in each of next 4 ch-1 sps, dc in last ch-1 sp, ch 1, sl st in marked st, rm, sl st in each of next 2 sts, skip 1, pm. {11 dc on each side}

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Row 4

Row/Rnd 5: Ch 2, turn, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to marker, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to marker, dc in marked st, ch 1, pm around ch just made, dc once more in marked st, rm, [skip 2, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st] 20 times dc in marked st, ch 1, pm around ch just made, dc once more in marked st, rm, sl st to top of first dc made. {72 dc}

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Row 5

Row 6: Do not turn, 4 sc in next ch-1 sp, 3 sc in each ch-1 sp to marker, rm, (4 sc, ch 2, pm, 4 sc) in ch-2 sp, 3 sc in each ch-1 sp to marker, sc once more in same ch-1 sp, sl st in dc before marker, sl st in marked ch-1 sp, rm, pm in next st. {26 sc on each side}

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Row 6

Row 7: Turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to marker, rm, (sc, ch 2, pm, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each sc until 1 sc remains, 2 sc in last sc, sl st in marked ch-1 sp, rm, sl st in next st, pm in next ch-1 sp. {28 sc on each side}

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Row 7

Row 8: Turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to marker, rm, (sc, ch 2, pm, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each sc until 1 sc remains, 2 sc in last sc, sl st in marked st, rm, sl st in next st, sl st in next ch-1 sp, skip 1 dc, pm in next dc. {30 sc on each side}

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - Row 8

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, (dc, ch 1, dc) in first sc, [skip 2, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc] until 2 sc before point marker, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, [skip 2, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc] across side, ch 1, sl st in marked ch-1 sp, sl st in each of next 2 dc, skip ch-1 sp, pm in next dc. {22 dc on each side}
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, dc in first ch-1 sp of side, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to marker, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp across side until 1 ch-1 sp remains on side, dc in next ch-1, ch 1, sl st in marked dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, sl st in next dc, skip next dc, pm in next ch-1 sp. {25 dc on each side}
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp across side to marker, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp across side, ch 1, sl st in marked dc, rm, sl st in next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, pm in next ch-1 sp. {28 dc on each side}
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, dc in first ch-1 sp of side, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to marker, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp across side until 1 ch-1 sp remains on side, dc in next ch-1, ch 1, sl st in marked ch-1 sp, sl st in each of next 2 dc, pm in next ch-1 sp. {31 dc on each side}
Row/Rnd 13: Ch 2, turn, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp across side to marker, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp across side, dc in marked ch-1 sp, ch 1, pm around ch just made, dc once more in marked ch-1 sp, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to marker, dc in marked ch-1 sp, ch 1, pm around ch just made, dc once more in marked st, rm, sl st to top of first dc made. {96 dc}
Row 14: Repeat Row 6. {56 sc on each side}
Row 15: Repeat Row 7. {58 sc on each side}
Row 16: Repeat Row 8. {60 sc on each side}
Row 17: Repeat Row 9. {42 dc on each side}
Row 18: Repeat Row 10. {45 dc on each side}
Row 19: Repeat Row 11. {48 dc on each side}
Row 20: Repeat Row 12. {51 dc on each side}
Row/Rnd 21: Repeat Row/Rnd 13. {120 dc}
Row 22: Repeat Row 6. {86 sc on each side}
Row 23: Repeat Row 7. {88 sc on each side}
Row 24: Repeat Row 8. {90 sc on each side}
Row 25: Repeat Row 9, do not place last marker. {62 dc on each side}
Row 26: Ch 1, turn, dc in first ch-1 sp of side, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to marker, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp across side until 1 ch-1 sp remains on side, dc in next ch-1, ch 1, sl st in marked dc, rm, sl st in next ch-1 sp. {65 dc on each side}

Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - 2
From this point on, continue working in rounds.

Rnd 27: Ch 4 (counts as first dc and ch-1 here and throughout), pm around ch just made, dc once more in same ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to marker, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each remaining ch-1 sp, sl st to 2nd ch of beginning ch-3. {140 dc}
Row 28: Sl st in marked ch-1 sp, rm, ch 4, pm around ch just made, dc once more in same ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to marker, rm, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, pm, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each remaining ch-1 sp, sl st to 2nd ch of beginning ch-3. {144 dc}
Rnd 29: Repeat Rnd 28. {148 dc}
Rnd 30: Sl st in marked ch-1 sp, rm, ch 1 (does not count as a st here or throughout), pm, 3 sc in same ch-1 sp, 3 sc in each ch-1 sp to marker, rm, (sc, ch 2, pm, sc) in ch-2 sp, 3 sc in each remaining ch-1 sp, sl st to top of beginning sc, rm. {224 sc}
Rnd 31: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), pm in last ch made, dc in each sc to marker, rm, (2 dc, ch 2, pm, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each remaining sc, sl st to top of beginning ch 3, rm. {228 dc}
Rnd 32: Ch 1, pm, sc in each st to marker, rm, (sc, ch 2, pm, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each remaining st, sl st to top of beginning sc, rm. {230 sc}
Rnd 33: Sl st in each of next 2 sts, ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2 here and throughout), [skip 2, dc in next st, ch 2], to marker, rm, (dc, ch 2, pm, dc) in ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in next st [ch 2, skip 2, dc in next st] until 3 sts remain, ch 2, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 5. {79 dc}
Rnd 34: Ch 5, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, [dc in next dc, ch 2] 3 times; repeat from * until 2 dc remain before marker, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, rm, (dc, ch 2, pm, dc) in ch-2 sp, ch 2, **dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, [dc in next dc, ch 2] 3 times; repeat from ** until 3 dc remain, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, [dc in next dc, ch 2] 2 times, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 5. {125 dc}
Rnd 35: Ch 5, dc in next dc, *ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 2, dc in next dc] 3 times; repeat from * to 4 dc before marker, ch 2, skip 2 dc, [dc in next dc, ch 2] 2 times, rm, (dc, ch 2, pm, dc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 2, dc in next dc] 2 times, **ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 2, dc in next dc] 3 times; repeat from * until 4 dc remain, ch 2, skip 2 dc, [dc in next dc, ch 2] 2 times, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 5. {83 dc}
Rnd 36: Ch 5, [dc in next dc, ch 2] to marker, rm, (dc, ch 2, pm, dc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 2, dc in next dc] to end of rnd, ch 2, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 5. {85 dc}
Rnd 37: Ch 4 (counts as first dc and ch 1), *(dc, ch 3, dc) in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * to marker, rm, (dc, ch 3, pm, dc) in ch-2 sp, **ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next dc; repeat from ** to end of rnd, ch 1, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4. {129 dc}
Rnd 38: Ch 1, sc in same dc, ch 1, *5 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 1, skip 1 dc, sc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * to marker, rm, pm, 7 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 1, **skip 1 dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, 5 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 1; repeat from ** to end of round, sl st to top of beginning sc.
Rnd 39: Ch 1, *sl st in next dc, (ch 3, sl st in next dc) 4 times, ch 1, sl st in sc, ch 1, repeat from *to marker, rm, sl st in next dc, (ch 3, sl st in next dc) 3 times, (ch 3, sl st in first ch made) 3 times, sl st in same dc, (ch 3, sl st in next dc) 3 times, **ch 1, sl st in sc, ch 1, sl st in next dc, (ch 3, sl st in next dc) 4 times; repeat from ** to end of round, ch 1, sl st in first sl st of round.

Finish off then weave in ends.

Wear or give and enjoy!

JAH Etsy Link
Juliette Shawl continuous shawl crochet pattern by Jessie At Home - 6

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Juliette Shawl - perfect for spring and won\'t fall off!Juliette Shawl - perfect for spring and won\'t fall off!Juliette Shawl - perfect for spring and won\'t fall off!
97 Comments

97 Comments on Juliette Shawl – perfect for spring and won’t fall off!

  1. The Wonderland Mini-Skeins come in 3 weights: Fingering, Sport and Worsted.
    Please confirm the weight you used for this BEAUTIFUL shawl.
    (I saw that someone had the same question on Facebook too.)

  2. Hooray for Girl Scout Leaders!!!! I’m a “lifer” and I thank you for your service to girls, including this introduction to creative crochet 🙂 You’ve made a lovely shawl.

  3. I do not like that you did not include one picture in the PDF download…..while looking thru my patterns I would skip right over this one because there is no picture.

    • There are no pictures in the black ink only, printer friendly PDF in order to keep it printer friendly and because a lot of the pictures will not be of good quality in black ink only. However, you can always copy a picture from the pattern post and paste it into a word doc, then print that out and attach it to the pattern.

  4. I was asked to make this for my sister in law, and I told her that if she bought the yarn I would make it. I was just wondering how much yarn or how many skiens i would need?

    • The yarn details are in the top of the post. If you check the post I put up on Friday, you will find a coupon code for the yarn that is good for the rest of the month.

  5. Love it so far. Am enjoying the look. Question is I am finished with row three .. where do join at?? I ended with chain 1 no room for last three slip stiches?
    Please send response to my email at:
    [email protected]

  6. I posted this link in Crochetville for our “Shawl We Crochet CAL” I hope you get lots of traffic.

    Darski (aka Darlene C.)

  7. I so love this pattern. I have always liked the look of shawls, but you want the perfect pin or you just have something that can end up being something to carry. But this design is so perfect, no need for a pin, no problem and such a lovely design. So I am trying it first with some yarn I have here, before I order some extra beautiful yarn. So, I am probably starting with something too advanced again:) I got to Round 6 and am not understanding. You say “Do not turn”, but are obviously still working into the triangle; are you reverse sc or what am I not getting?

    • For row/round 5, you worked all the way around the shawl; as in you worked up one side of the triangle, down the other, and around the neck. Then for Row 6 you keep going up one side of the triangle and down the other. For row 7 you turn and just work the triangle. Every several rows there is a row/round that goes all the way around the shawl, but the rest of the rows are just worked in the triangle.

  8. Thank you for sharing this beautiful pattern. I’m at row/round 29 and have a problem. The stitch count at the end says 76 ch 1 spaces around, ch 2 space. My count is 76 ch 1 spaces on just the triangle part. I have more than that when I add the around the neck part. My count has been right up to this point. In the row before, it says we should have 36 ch 1 spaces on each side. 36 x 2 is 72, so to go to the next round it seems like it would have to be more than 76 if you count all the way around. Can you help me? Am I misunderstanding something?

    • It’s right. 36 x 2 is 72, as you said, and at this point in the shawl, the triangle is almost all the way around the the neck part. If you have been right up to this point, you should have the idea of how the row round works. How far off are you on your count?

      • I have 38 on each side and 12 across the neck edge for a total of 88 plus ch 2 space at the peak. I must have been doing the end of the edges wrong. A frogging I shall go. Thanks for your help.

    • I was having problems with the stitch count as well. I’ve crocheted for nearly 34 years and your pattern is a little difficult to follow as written but I am figuring it out as I go. I’m on the last round now and can’t figure out the stitches at the point…there are 3 picots at the tip and you don’t mention how to stitch through them. I guess I’ll just have to make it up as I go for the last round.

      • The pattern has you sl stitching in the dcs of the point, that is how you stitch under the picots from the 2nd to last round. This is not a traditional shape or a traditional way to make a pattern, as it starts with a round, and then has rows that each work into a few more sts of the rounds, and then has a round, then back to rows, and so on. It is certainly more advanced and it is easy to get confused, but it does work.

  9. I have tried this pattern 3 times and am confused by the direction on round 5. You say there should be 38 ch 1 spaces around the ch 2 space and that count does not work out when I do it. Could you clarify your pattern? Thank you.

    • Did you get row 4 right? I really don’t know where you are making a mistake, so all I can really say is to follow the pattern and be sure to use stitch markers as indicated.

  10. I finished the shawl and had to make up the last round (stitches in the point) as I went. Turned out fine. I think you just wrote it wrong as there are 4 dc, 3 picots, 4 dc in the point of the previous round and you wrote the final round as ( sl st after next dc ) 5 times and don’t even mention the picots…very confusing. I just did a ch 3 between the picots and carried on.

    • …to point, sl st after next dc, ch 3, (sl st after next dc) 5 times, ch 3, sl st after next dc,…
      so there is the first of the 8 dc you mentioned (we’ll call it dc1), then you sl st after it and ch 3, then you sl st after dc2, dc3, dc4, dc5, and dc6, then you ch 3 and sl st after dc7, then continue with the pattern.

      I am sorry if you didn’t understand it, but it does work. I just looked at the shawl to make sure, and what I wrote is exactly what I did on the shawl.

  11. Sorry, you may have been asked this before. I am in the Uk ad need to buy my yarn to make this, what weight did you use? Thanks

  12. Hi Jessie,
    I just made the foundation chain of 91 and double crocheted the 87 stitches. After joining the top with a slip stitch to make a loop; the bottom part of the double crochet is not connected. Is this correct?

  13. Hi! Thank you for all the work you put into this pattern! I’m new at reading patterns and I think I may be doing something wrong I was hoping you could answer my 2 questions. 1. When you are first joining to make a loop, before you start round 1, what chain am I looking to join? 2. By row three should it look like petals? Again thank you so much for your hard work!

    • When you first make the loop you simply fold the piece into a ring so it is not twisted and join it together with a sl st to the last ch you made before you started making single crochets.

      You then start working the triangle part onto the the ring. Be sure to use markers (a bobby pin or safety pin work if you don’t have removable crochet markers) and be sure to turn your work when the pattern says. You will make a triangle (kind of like a petal) coming off the ring, and you will continue to make the triangle larger as you go. There should only be 1 triangle coming off the ring.

      This is a more advanced pattern, just take your time, and be sure to follow the pattern.

  14. Hi! I just made this and it came out BEAUTIFULLY! Thanks for sharing this pattern.

    Is it okay if I sell the shawl I made from your pattern online? I saw that the pattern is copyrighted…so I wasn’t sure! Please let me know because I would respect your wishes!

    • Thank you! And thank you for asking. The pattern itself is copyrighted, but you may sell finished items. I do ask that if you sell them, you give me designer credit when possible.

  15. Hi there. Found this on Ravelry and have to give it a try. Can I ask, what is the measurement around the neck opening? I’m wondering if I’m working too tightly as it seems a little on the small side.

    Thanks!

  16. I do NOT Belong to Any social media website. So are you saying that in order to make this shawl I must sit in front of the computer ?. I have no intention of sharing your design with anyone, but I do need a hard copy to refer to. It is free but it does me no good if I can’t have the directions to print out.

    • I’m not sure what would make you think you need to belong to a social media site to print the pattern. You can get the PDF from the link that takes you to Craftsy (not a social media site).

      • the craftsy website asks you to create an account before downloanding the pdf, at least it asked me for a login before I downloaded it.

        • Yes, you have to sign into Craftsy to use Craftsy, but there is no membership cost, and it is a trustworthy site.

  17. Bonjour je te remercie pour ce beau châle tuto gratuit je l’ai telecharger sur Craftsy (je suis sanchastef) ,j’ai un problème je ne comprend pas bien l’anglais , as tu fais un sema ou un dessin des points ça m’aiderait beaucoup s’il te plaît merci !

    • I’m sorry, there is no chart or video for this pattern, and I only speak English, so I can’t really help with translation issues. I’m not even sure if I am answering the question you asked because I am relying on Google translate to figure out what you asked.

  18. Está hermoso y me gustaria hacerlo . Tendrias los gráficos o esquemas ?. Es mas fácil porque los simbolos son universales. Con el patron por escrito mi ingles no me da para interpretarlo , y las traducciones son malas. Desde ya muchas gracias

  19. Thank you for all your hard work on this beautiful pattern! In round 38, the first part of the instructions say 5dc in each ch3 sp, and the second part says 4dc in each ch3 sp. I am assuming this is an error and they should be the same? I am almost finished and will post a photo on ravelry when done!

    • With all the times it’s been made, you would think someone would have noticed that before now! I fixed it. The second repeat (after the **) now has 5 dc. Thank you so much!

  20. I have just finished this and like how it looks but have a few suggestions.
    Row/round 5, I had 2 too many stitches at the end, may be too many in initial setup
    Round 29 – at end, could read, should be closed, attached, etc, so we know we are at the right place.
    Round 34 – sl to 3d ch of beginning ch 3, not ch 5 – and stitch count at end I get 126 dc
    Round 38, after first **, should be 5 dc in ch-3 sp, same as first part, not 4 dc as printed.
    Round 39, do not turn could be inserted, it is in all other rounds.
    I do like how this looks and drapes.

  21. I can’t get past the 3 slip stitch on the first row. Do I repeat…where does the { } institutions come into play…I am beyond lost!

  22. Your pattern is preeeeetty cool. On row 8, it says sl st in each of next dc. Did you mean two? Or am I missing something?

    Again, cool pattern. Thanks for making it free for cheapos like me.

    • Thank you so much!! That’s the best “you make a mistake” reply ever. 🙂 I fixed row 8 so it should be a little more clear now. Have a great day!

  23. I spun the yarn and then followed this pattern. I’m in love! I usually give my work away, but this one is for keeps.

  24. I don’t know if you’ll still see a comment this late in the game 🙂 but I’ve gotten this far and ran into trouble. At the end of 29 I assume it’s supposed to have come together in the back. I’ve counted carefully along the way, and I do have 76 spaces, but that’s just on the triangle. I have another 4 still along the band between the triangle corners. In the interest of not losing all that work, would it mess up the pattern (other than stitch counts) horribly if I do two more triangle rows in order to close that gap? And/or, do you have any idea where I might’ve gone wrong?

  25. I started this pattern last year, and seeing from my previous comment, it looks like I got to at least row 8. However, I lost the project and yarn, because I’m reeeeaaaaally bad at keeping track of stuff. I finally got new yarn, and I restarted. Whenever I do row 5, I get roughly 40 chain one spaces instead of 38. I counted my foundation dc, and I still have 89. Looking through the pattern, I counted 19 dc are already gobbled up or skipped at this point. 89-19=70, and I have that. But when I do it or just count, it ends up being 24 chain one spaces on the unused dc alone. The triangle uses up 16, but 38-16=22, so I have two too many. The only other thing I could think of was that the triangle needed to gobble more, so I redid the triangle, but I’m still running into the same problem, and I’ve officially gone through every solution I could think of. What am I doing wrong? I obviously did it before. Garh.

  26. Hi,
    Thank you for sharing this pattern with us. I’m on row/round 13 and according to the pattern, at the end of the round, I should have 50 1-ch sp, ch-2 points however, I actually got 54 1-ch sp, ch-2 points. I know that I have too many dc, ch 1, dc around the neck area but I can’t understand why I ended up with too many of those. I checked row/round 5, I got it right and ended up with 38 ch-1 sp, ch-2 point so I cant figure out where I made a mistake. If I just continued with row 13 having 4 extra spaces what could be the effect to the project?

    • You could run out of yarn, you might get confused on other rounds. If you feel confident in moving forward this way, go for it, I don’t know your skill level so it’s hard for me to know if you can make it work.

  27. ohhhhh I would really really LOVE it if you would actually crochet and explain as you go on YouTube. A lot times it makes it go a lot smoother for me to follow and see what it is you are doing. Absolutely beautiful shawl and I am going to make it if it kills me!

  28. I’m at the last round, and I don’t understand the pattern. It says to sl st after the next dc, but if I chain 3 and sl st into every other dc 3 times, there’s no last dc to sl st into since there’s only 5 dc. What stitches am i supposed to sl st into?

    • I don’t have the sample to look at right now, and this is a pretty old pattern. I would say just make it symmetrical, so that both sides match.

  29. I am so confused for the last round. If there are 5 dcs in the chain three spaces, how can I sl st after the next dc and then check 3 and sl st after the next dc three more times??? There’d have to be like 8 dc for that, or 6 following the remaining instructions. Am I supposed to sl st in the same st that I chained 3 in? I’m pretty much ready to just put my own edge on by reverse sc/dc back around…

    • Your making picots around the shells, so you sl st, then make a picot (ch 3) then slip st, and so on. The center shell already has a design on it, so your just sl stitching across it.

  30. I’m not trying to be a pain, but you may want to include a note that 2 stitch markers are needed for this project 😉 I brought a copy with me on vacation with some sock yarn to see if I could understand the pattern, and didn’t bring stitch markers lol, I tried using worsted weight snips of yarn from another project but it got too fiddly, so for now I gave up.

    I’ll finish it when I get home and have my markers lol

    Very beautiful shawl, though. I look forward to making quite a few

  31. My row 13 just does not workout. Don’t know what I’m doing wrong i end up with 52 or 54. Frogged it so many times.

    • Is your row 12 correct?
      Turn, ch 1, place marker around ch just made, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to point, *there are 16 ch-1 on each side of row 12, so this will give you 17 ch-1

      (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-2 sp, *this give you 2 more, making a total of 19

      (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to marker, (dc, ch 1, dc) in marked ch, remove marker, place a marker around the last ch made, *here’s another 17, making a total of 36

      (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp to first marker, dc in same st as the last sl st of the last row, ch 1, sl st to top of first dc made, remove marker. *this should give you 14 more. This is the area were you can fudge things around to get the proper number if it’s not working out right for you.

      • Thank you it was my previous rows not going into correct stitches at end of rows.
        Is there any way you can edit row 34 as stitch count is wrong and nearly did my head in and then figured out it was the pattern wrong. Thank you for your time ?

  32. This shawl is perfect for my own need for some special gifts for some dear friends who are either battling with cancer or just found out that a loved one has it.

    Is it ok for me to turn it into a pdf for my own binder to use for such purposes in the future as well?

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