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Baker’s Tee ~ Free Crochet Pattern

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You won’t believe the simplicity of this pattern! It is simply a linen stitch rectangle with a slit in the middle, which is then folded in half. The vertical stripes add a fun accent to this easy tee. Plus, AUNT LYDIA’S® Baker’s Cotton is machine washable, and so very attractive! There are instructions at the end of the pattern on how to add length to the top if you want it longer.

Bakers-Tee-Cover-Photo
Ravelry Link

Baker’s Tee
Crochet Pattern
Easy Skill Level
Designed by Jessie Rayot

Bakers-Tee-by-Jessie-At-Home-Free-Crochet-Pattern

Sizes:
XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
Bust 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62)

Finished Measurements:
Bust 32 (36.5, 40.5, 45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65) inches
Shoulder to hem 20.5 (21, 22, 22.5, 22.75, 23, 23, 23.5, 23.5) inches *instructions at the end of the pattern to make the top longer)

Yarn:
AUNT LYDIA’S® Baker’s Cotton
Color A: 6 (7, 8, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12) skeins Black 12
Color B: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) skeins Pink 700
Color C: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) skeins Purple 565
Color D: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) skeins Turquoise 529
Color E: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) skeins Green 621

Hook:
US 6/G/4.00 mm
US 4/E/3.50 mm

Other Supplies:
Yarn needle

Gauge:
26 sts and 27 rows in a 4” square in linen stitch. It is very important that you obtain gauge, use whatever size hook is needed to get the correct gauge. If your gauge is off, your tee will not be the correct size.

Stitches and Skills used:
ch ~ chain
sc ~ single crochet
St(s) ~ stitch(es)

Getting Started:
Keep a row count throughout the entire pattern. Follow the color chart at the end of the pattern

Pattern:

Row 1: With smaller hook, ch 266 (274, 288, 294, 296, 300, 300, 306, 306), switch to larger hook, sc in second ch from hook, [ch 1, skip 1, sc in next ch] until 1 ch remains, sc in last ch.
*If you want your top to be longer, please see the instructions at the end of the pattern. The top is made longer by starting with more chains.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] through last ch-1, sc in last sc.
Repeat row 2: until there are a total of 53 (61, 67, 75, 81, 89, 95, 101, 109) rows.

Neck opening row: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 35 (37, 38, 40, 40, 40, 40, 41, 40) times, switch to smaller hook, ch 89 (89, 91, 95, 95, 99, 101, 101, 105), skip 89 (89, 91, 95, 95, 99, 101, 101, 105), switch to larger hook, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] through last ch-1, sc in last sc.

Next Row: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 1, skip 1, sc in next st] until 1 st remains, sc in last sc. (on this row the single crochets worked over the linen st sections will be worked in the ch-1 spaces, and the single crochets work over the ch section will be worked in the chains.

Repeat row 2: until the color chart is completed, do not end off the last row, pull the loop long so it does not come undone, and remove hook.
Weave in all ends.

Bakers-Tee-laying-flat

Border: Insert hook back into the loop from the last row and pull loop back around the hook. Ch 2, rotate piece, (sc in the edge of the next row, ch-1, skip the edge of the next row) across bottom of piece, rotate piece, ch 2, (sc in next ch-1, ch 1) along side of piece, ch 2, rotate piece, (sc in the edge of the next row, ch-1, skip the edge of the next row) across bottom of piece, join with a sl st to the first st of the last row made before the border.

Finishing: Fold the tee in half, so the long edge is folded and the short edges are lined up at the bottom; the fold is the top/shoulders of the tee. Sew up sides starting 2” above the bottom, and stopping 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches below the top. **optional: Instead of using the measurements given, try the tee on and determine the point that looks best for the end of the side seam. I suggest leaving a long tail on the seaming yarn, so after completing the seam you can try on the tee and raise or lower the armhole as may be needed.

To make the top longer:
If you want it longer you will start off with more chains. Determine how much longer you want the top to be, and add on 13 sts for each extra inch, then round up to the closest multiple of 4, (so for 1 inch you would add 1×13=13, round to 16, for 2 you would add 2×13=26, round to 28, for 3 you would add 3×13=39, round to 40, and so on) this will add 2 inches to the rectangle for every inch you need in length, but as it is folded in half, that is one inch to the bottom of the front, and one inch to the bottom of the back. When you get to the row for the neck slit, you will have to add half as many stitches before your neck slit. So if you added 16 stitches to your chain, you will have to make 8 more sts before starting the next, which is 4 more repeats of the [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp].

Obviously, adding length will affect the yarn amount used, be sure to buy enough yarn.

The other option is to add more onto the short ends of the rectangle after it is made by adding more rows of linen stitch after completing the border. This will effectively make a horizontal stripe at the bottom of the tee.

Color Charts:
Color Pattern XS (S, M)

18 (26, 32) rows of color A, then 1 row each of B, A, C, A, D, A, E, A, then 2 rows each of B, A, C, A, D, A, E, A, 3 rows of B, 2 rows of A, 3 rows of C, 2 rows of A, 1 row of D, (neck opening row is next), 2 rows of D, 2 rows of A, 3 rows of E, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of B, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of C, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of D, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of E, 19 (27, 33) rows of A.

Color Pattern L (1X, 2X)

22 (28, 36) rows of color A, then 1 row each of B, A, C, A, D, A, E, A, then 2 rows each of B, A, C, A, D, A, E, A, 3 rows of B, 2 rows of A, 3 rows of C, 2 rows of A, 3 rows of D, 2 rows of A, 3 rows of E, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of B, 3 rows of A, 1 row of C, (neck opening row is next), 3 rows of C, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of D, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of E, 4 rows of A, 5 rows of B, 4 rows of A, 5 rows of C, 4 rows of A, 5 rows of D, 4 rows of A, 5 rows of E, 23 (29, 37) rows of A.

Color Pattern 3X (4X, 5X)

20 (26, 34) rows of color A, then 1 row each of B, A, C, A, D, A, E, A, then 2 rows each of B, A, C, A, D, A, E, A, 3 rows of B, 2 rows of A, 3 rows of C, 2 rows of A, 3 rows of D, 2 rows of A, 3 rows of E, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of B, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of C, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of D, 3 rows of A, 4 rows of E, 4 rows of A, 1 row of B, (neck opening row is next), 4 rows of B, 4 rows of A, 5 rows of C, 4 rows of A, 5 rows of D, 4 rows of A, 5 rows of E, 5 rows of A, 6 rows of B, 5 rows of A, 6 rows of C, 5 rows of A, 6 rows of D, 5 rows of A, 6 rows of E, 21 (27, 35) rows of A.

Bakers-Tee-Free-Crochet-Pattern

If you have any questions or concerns, want to share pictures of your work, or just want to chat with Jessie and other crafty individuals, than join my Facebook group.

Craftsy

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33 thoughts on “Baker’s Tee ~ Free Crochet Pattern”

    • Great question! That is why I listed the length as well. If you want it longer you will start off with more chains. Determine how much longer you want the top to be, and add on 13 sts for each extra inch, then round up to the closest multiple of 4, (so for 1 inch you would add 1×13=13, round to 16, for 2 you would add 2×13=26, round to 28, for 3 you would add 3×13=39, round to 40, and so on) this will add 2 inches to the rectangle for every inch you need in length, but as it is folded in half, that is one inch to the bottom of the front, and one inch to the bottom of the back. When you get to the row for the neck slit, you will have to add half as many stitches before your neck slit. So if you added 16 stitches to your chain, you will have to make 8 more sts before starting the next, which is 4 more repeats of the [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp].

      Obviously, adding length will affect the yarn amount used, be sure to buy enough yarn.

      I will add this into the pattern, I hope it helps. 🙂

      Reply
  1. I’m confused 🙂 where do the arms come in?
    Awesome looking tee, can’t wait to make it…as soon as I understand the arm part. LOL

    Reply
    • Look at the picture of it laying flat. It is then folded in half and sewn up the sides with a small opening at the bottoms for hip slits and larger openings at the top for arm holes. The slit is off center so that most of it is in the front for a longer front neck opening.

      Reply
    • Yes, it is. Just ask to join the group and I will let you in. I leave it closed so what you say/post in the group can not be seen by others not in the group. That way we are no cluttering up the feeds of people not in the group, and if you are working on something that is a gift for someone not in the group, you can talk about it and post pictures in the group without them seeing it. 🙂

      Reply
  2. How pretty ; I really like the construction of this top. 🙂
    I see something about the unclarity of the gauge. I don’t understand what stitches to use for my gauge.
    What is “linen stitch?” In other words, how many sc, dc, etc to such-and-such inches or centimeters?
    Thank you. :). And thank you for posting this. The photo of the top laid flat is a big help in visualizing this.
    PS: You have two beautiful angels with you in the pictures! 🙂

    Reply
  3. You talk about leaving slits for the armholes, but I don’t see any mention of had to add the sleeves to the armholes.

    Reply
  4. You may want to check out MEGMADEWITHLOVE.COM pattern Cross my Heart Sweater. Her top is made the same way.lol

    Reply
    • Well, that’s neat. Isn’t it interesting how we can use the same techniques and come up with different designs? There are so many ideas out there!

      Reply
    • More rows will make the body wider as well. You could make the shirt as written, then add additional rounds just to the arm openings.

      Reply

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