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Dragon Wing Cowl – a Jacob’s ladder knit pattern

This post may contain affiliate links. If you purchase something from one of these links I will be compensated. Thank you.

The Dragon Wing Cowl knit pattern uses my knit Jacob’s ladder technique to create fun ridges, and simple increases to give it shape.

Dragon Wing Cowl Knit Pattern by Jessie At Home - Social
Video Link Jessie At Home

The trick is to make sure you use stitch markers, and to not drop the stitches until the pattern says to! This pattern was inspired by the way I draped the Dropped and Found scarf in one of the photos. I loved the look and wanted to make a cowl that had the same shape.

ETA: I had many requests for a crochet version, so here it is.

Dragon Wing Cowl Knit Pattern by Jessie At Home - 4

The yarn for this design was provided by Knit Picks / WeCrochet. All opinions are my own.

Dragon Wing Cowl

A Jacob’s Ladder Knit Pattern
Intermediate Skill Level
Designed by Jessie Rayot

Dragon Wing Cowl Knit Pattern by Jessie At Home - Pin 1


22” x 30”

Knit Picks / WeCrochet Chroma Twist: (70% Superwash Wool, 30% Nylon), Size 4 (Worsted), 198 yds / 100 g (yds/g = 1.98)
Fathoms 28507: 2 skeins, 240 yds / 120 g)

5.0 mm (US 8)

Gauge: Learn about gauge HERE
19 sts x 34 rows = 4” [10 cm] in garter stitch after blocking

Other supplies
Yarn Needle
3 Buttons or Toggles
10 Stitch Markers

Stitches and Abbreviations: click on highlighted sts for tutorials
bo – bind off
co – cast on
k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
kfb – knit front and back
pm – place marker
sm – slip marker
st(s) – stitch(es)
w&t – wrap and turn
yo – yarn over
[ ] – work step in brackets number of times indicated

Getting Started
  • Read through all instructions before beginning.
  • In the increase section you will place 10 stitch markers. Each set of 2 markers will be on either side of 3 sts. These 3 stitches should always stay between the sets of markers and should be knit in every row, never increased into. These sets of 3 sts will be the sts that are dropped in the finishing.
  • When making the last loop of each Jacob’s ladder section, if there are 3 or 4 strands left, then use them as the last loop, if there are 2 loops left, then make the last and second to last loop both with 3, and if there’s only 1, then add it to the previous loop.
  • Row counts are at the end of each Row after the period, if the count has changed from the previous Row. {count here}
Video Tutorial Jessie At Home


Using the Long Tail Cast On, CO 35
Most other cast ons will not unravel properly for the dropped stitches.

Row 1: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, K to end. {35 sts}
Repeat Row 1 until piece measures 15” long.

Increase Section

Row 1: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k1, [pm, k3, pm, k4] 4 times, pm, k3, pm, k2. {35 sts}
Row 2: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 4 markers, kfb, k past 2 more markers, kfb, k to end. {37 sts}
Rows 3-4: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k to end.
Rows 5-16: Repeat Rows 2-4 four times. {45 sts}
Row 17: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, [k past 2 markers, kfb] 4 times, k to end. {49 sts}
Rows 18-19: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k to end.
Rows 20-64: Repeat Rows 17-19 fifteen times. {109 sts}

Points (short rows)

If you don’t want to do the short row section, then just skip it and move on to finishing.
Whenever you knit past a w&t stitch, be sure to pick up the wrap. See the video tutorial for assistance.

Row 1: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 2 markers, k9, w&t.
Row 2: K across.
Row 3: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 2 markers, k7, w&t.
Row 4: K across.
Row 5: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 2 markers, k5, w&t.
Row 6: K across.
Row 7: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 2 markers, k3, w&t.
Row 8: K across.
Row 9: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 2 markers, k1, w&t.
Row 10: K across.
Row 11: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 4 markers, k9, w&t.
Row 12: K past 2 markers, k9, w&t.
Row 13: K past 2 markers, k7, w&t.
Row 14: K past 2 markers, k7, w&t.
Row 15: K past 2 markers, k5, w&t.
Row 16: K past 2 markers, k5, w&t.
Row 17: K past 2 markers, k3, w&t.
Row 18: K past 2 markers, k3, w&t.
Row 19: K past 2 markers, k1, w&t.
Row 20: K past 2 markers, k1, w&t.
Rows 21-40: Repeat Rows 11-20 two times, without slipping the first stitch when Row 11 is repeated.
Row 41: K across.
Row 42: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 2 markers, k9, w&t.
Row 43: K across.
Row 44: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 2 markers, k7, w&t.
Row 45: K across.
Row 46: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 2 markers, k5, w&t.
Row 47: K across.
Row 48: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 2 markers, k3, w&t.
Row 49: K across.
Row 50: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 2 markers, k1, w&t.
Row 51: K across.


Row 1: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, [k to marker, remove marker, drop 3 sts, yo, slip marker] 5 times, k2. {99 sts}
Row 2: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, K to end, knitting the yarn overs through the back loop and ignoring dropped sts. {99 sts}

Jacob’s Ladder

Step 1: Pull the dropped stitches all the way to the bottom.

Step 2: Take the bottom 4 strands from the dropped sts, hold them together, and twist them half a turn to make a loop, * grab the next 4 strands together and pull them through the loop (do not twist), repeat from * until all the dropped strands have been turned into a chain. This can be done with your fingers, or with a large crochet hook. Place a removable stitch marker or safety pin around the last set of loops. Repeat for each set of dropped sts.

Bind Off

*Bind off to one stitch before marker, hold the yarn on the wrong side of the work (if you’re working from the right side, then the yarn is already on the wrong side of the work, if you’re working from the wrong side then you will need to pull the yarn to the front to be on the wrong side), slip the set of loops from the Jacob’s ladder section onto the right needle, K1, pass all remaining sts on the right needle over the st just made (1 st left on right needle); repeat from * until all Jacob’s Ladder sections are bound off, bind off remaining sts.

Block piece with edges folded under so that the first and last Jacob’s ladder sections are at the edge. Follow the schematic for the blocking measurements.

Dragon Wing Cowl - Blocking

Sew buttons on small end, one at each corner, and one in the middle. Use the spaces under the Jacob’s ladder sections as button holes.

Wear or give and enjoy!

Dragon Wing Cowl Knit Pattern by Jessie At Home - 3

If you are going to make the Dragon Wing Cowl, then get some supplies from these affiliate links. You pay the same price, and I get a small referral fee.

Knit Picks Magic Crystals Stitch Markers
Knit Picks Chroma Twist Worsted
Knit Picks Mosaic Options Interchangeable Circular Set
Knit Picks Light Brown Wood Toggle, 5cm
Knit Picks Basic Blocking Kit

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© Copyright 2015 Jessie Rayot / Jessie At Home All my videos, patterns, charts, photos and posts are my own work, so you may not copy them in any way. If you want to share this information with someone, then share the link to this post. If you want to share on your own blog / website, then you may use the first photo in this post and link back to this post. Also, you may not give away printed copies of this post.

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112 thoughts on “Dragon Wing Cowl – a Jacob’s ladder knit pattern”

  1. O ! M! G! That is gorgeous – I am definitely going to make that just as soon as I find a yarn worthy of such a beautiful design!

  2. Jessie, I love this cowl!!! So much that I went to the store to buy the right size knitting needles because all I have are sets of 7, 10, 10 1/2, and 13. I already had an extra skein of RH Soft in black so that was great. Only trouble now is that I’ve done my swatch and it is far from right. My 31sts x 19 rows = 6″ x 2.25″. How can I fix this?

    Thanks a million!

    • I had a rather big typo in the gauge swatch. It was backwards!! I fixed it, and I actually put in the after blocking gauge because you tend to get more accurate results that way, but the preblocking gauge should be 18 or 19 sts by 31 rows.

      • Thank you Jessie for clearing that up. I was feeling a bit disappointed in myself. I thought I’d have to search for a new weekend project.

  3. I’m just teaching myself to knit and my daughter is begging for one of these! I have a couple of questions. Is one skein of the yarn enough? About 200 yards of worsted weight? Do you use circular needles and if so, what length?

    • One skein of the suggested yarn is enough ~ the details should be at the top of the pattern. I used circulars because I pretty much use them for everything. I think I used 24″, but 16″ or anything longer is just fine.

  4. This is so pretty! I kind of want to do it with the drop stitches in an accent color instead of all one color. Do you think it’s possible? I’m still a bit of a novice so I’m not sure.

  5. I’m still having some trouble with making the loops. What size crochet hook do you recommend using? At the moment I’m using a 4.5 mm crochet hook since that’s all I have on hand, but I feel like it’s not big enough.

  6. Wow! Looks so awesome! Looks like it could be the top of a cool top/sweater too, if you ever feel like making a pattern for that: I’m interested!!

  7. Hi Jessie,
    I am getting into knitting and absolutely love this cowl! This is a little too advanced for me but I know someone who would love this as well. Do you ever sell the finished projects? If so I would love to buy one!!!

    • I don’t make them to order. However, it’s easier than it looks, if you have a knitting friend, maybe you can get a little help. Or, you can join the facebook group I linked in the pattern and you can try it and share pictures as you go. Then just ask if you get stumped, there is usually someone around who can help (often times it’s me), and if you ask and no one answers after a few hours, you can tag me and I’ll answer the next time I’m in the group.

  8. Hi Jessie,
    This is by far the most interesting neck warmer pattern I’ve found and I would like to try to make it.
    I am not an experience knitter and not quite sure what blocking means and how it effects the work.
    I do have a yard in mind for this project, according to instructions, 4mm-6mm needles can be used on it.
    Using a 4.5mm needles I achieved 16 stiches over 21 rows gauge (again, not sure how blocking fits here).
    Is this yarn too thick? Or can I adjust the pattern somehow to it? If i use much smaller number needle I believe my project will be just be too stiff.
    Would love your thoughts on this.
    Thank you,

    • If you look up blocking knitting on YouTube you will find many suggestions. For this project, I recommend laying the item face down on a pinnable surface and pinning it down, gently stretched. Then take a steam item, and HOVER (do not touch the yarn) over the item. You don’t want to soak it, just lightly steam it. Let it cool down and dry for 24 hours. When you remove the pins, it will maintain it’s shape.

      As for the gauge, a different gauge will change the size of the cowl. I can’t speak to how the cowl will look in different yarn and different gauge because there are just too many factors. Your best bet is to make a swatch and decide what you think.

      • Hi Jessie and thank you for the reply.

        I decided to go with a different yarn. It alternates between gray blue and black and has a metallic shine to it. Should look awesome with your pattern!
        I wasn’t able to achieve the gauge and at the end i decided to narrow by casting 31 stitches instead of 35. The length will be easier to control as I could stop and finish whenever I reach the size I want.
        As for adjusting the pattern, do you have any ideas of how could I avoid from dropping the wrong stitches, as in the stitches with the increase? So far I was thinking of doing K10 instead of K12 starting row 117. That would make 2 stitches less at the beginning and the end of each row. Not too sure how to make the proper adjustment from row 132 and on. Any ideas?
        Thank you!

        • Alona,

          I didn’t really write the pattern in a way that makes it easy to adjust the starting cast on. There are only 2 sts before the first dropped sts, and after the last, so if you omit the first and last 2 sts on every row, the pattern will not work. I’m sorry, but I would have to write an entirely new pattern to remove 4 sts. You can ether go down a needle size, or have a wider cowl.

  9. Hi there! I successfully made this cowl and it is beautiful so decided to make another. I’ve run into a strange issue on the second cowl- when I start pulling down the dropped stitches one or two of them “disappear” and the run becomes too small to do the chains. I’ve gone back to figure out where those bloody dropped stitches have gone to no avail…does anyone have an idea about how to find them to make the run wider? Sheesh.

    • If you put an increase in the wrong place, or you dropped the wrong sts, that could be it. However, I know that I had the problem with one of my runs, and upon close inspection I found the stitch that had stopped dropping. The fuzz of the yarn had caused it to snag, so I had to pick at it with a yarn needle to loosen the snag, then it dropped and all was well.

  10. I finished my cowl. It is beautiful! but it is too small. I swear the gauge was right on. I used Paton’s Classic Wool which is also a medium weight. I used Size 13US needle. I know that seems big but I always have to use larger needles to get the gauge. I’m super disappointed that it came out so small. I’ve not done much with blocking but even if I did steam it and stretch it out a bit, I still don’t think it would be big enough. The length of it is not enough to really make it all the way around and the wing does not cover even close to what I see in the picture. I’m 5’10” and have broad shoulders. Do I have this all wrong or do I just really need to move up to a chunky weight yarn to get it the size needed to fit a big person?

    • I measured my finished piece. It is about 7″ wide at the small end, 20″ wide at the wide end, and 22″ long. I’m not sure how to get it longer and wider at the ends without it getting super wide at the start. I’m open for suggestions! Like I said, it is a beautiful cowl, I’m going to tuck it away for my daughter some day.

    • Did you check the gauge to make sure you had it? From what you said, it sounds like you think you had gauge, but you didn’t check. So it sounds to me like you didn’t get gauge. Plus, different yarns react differently to blocking. The yarn I used tends to get a bit bigger, whereas a shrinkable wool could actually tighten up a bit if you blocked it with too much heat. My suggestions would be to make sure you have gauge by making a swatch, and to make the beginning longer before you start the increases so you know it will wrap longer. Just be sure to add a multiple of 4 rows. Also, if you make a yarn substitution, know it will act differently from the suggested yarn.

  11. mine came out very, very small…..even when I go to block it, it is so small and won’t fit over my 14 year old. All my stitches were counted properly. Can’t figure out what I did wrong! Tempted to rip it and start over….

    • Did you check your gauge? Did you check the measurements listed to be sure it would fit in the first place? These are the 2 most common mistakes. You can make it longer by making more rows before the increases start, make sure to make them in multiples of 4. If you don’t want to pull back that far, you can pick up the sts from the cast on and make it longer from the bottom.

  12. Mine also came out extremely small. I’m tiny and it won’t fit me. I plan on just taking out my bind off and trying to add more rows on that end as it didn’t get wide enough either. I tripled checked my gauge, rows, and stitches repeatedly throughout the whole project and followed the instructions down to the dots on the ‘I’s, but it just didn’t reach the expected measurements. I’m assuming the yarn I used didn’t take to the chains well? I’m going to attempt a few fixes and see if I can get it to where it needs to be. I’m really looking forward to seeing this one finished properly. I will update if I can fix it and hopefully that may help someone else who uses a different yarn as well 🙂

    • The recommended yarn is a very soft yarn, so it grows a lot when it’s blocked. If you use a different yarn, you really need to make the part before the increases longer.

  13. Would it be alright if I made enough of these to sell on Etsy? I really enjoyed making this, and it came out looking awesome, but I can’t find any notices of whether or not I’d be allowed to sell it, so I thought I’d ask.

    • Thank you so much for asking! I have no problem with you selling finished items on Etsy, I just ask that you give me pattern design credit and include a link to the pattern in the description. Good luck!! 🙂

  14. Hi, As I’ve chosen a different yarn to yours, I had to buy three balls of my yarn to meet the length required. So my issues is, I’ve just used up the first ball and need to add a new one…now later on at the end when we drop our stitches all the way down to the beginning, I’m worried that where I join my new ball may affect the overall looked of the reunited dropped stitches. Is there a safe place to make a join? Sorry if this sounds confusing.

      • Thanks Jessie, my intention was to join at the start of the row. I’m on row 94. As the first stitch is the slip purl wise, yarn’s not technically a knitted stitch, so I was going to add it from the second stitch. Going by the photo, the cowl has the reknitted stitch feature up both outer sides, which would include the knitted stitch were I’m going to join my yarn…will it still unravel correctly if I do this join here. Sorry to ask further.

        • I would join with a loose knot at the end of a row and leave long tails. Then after you have dropped and looped the stitches you can untie the knots and weave in the ends before blocking.

  15. Hi! I’m currently working on the first 116 rows, and right not that section is measuring about 8.5 inches wide, and also matches the gauge you have for a pre-blocked piece. After I rework the dropped stitches and block the cowl, will the width decrease sufficiently to match your final product?

  16. Hello! First of all thanks for this wonderful pattern – I haven’t knitted in a while and this has been a lot of fun! I have successfully dropped all my stitches, but when chaining them up in sets of four I am left with only 2 strands at the top – since the pattern calls for 178 rows I think this is correct (178/4 is 44.5) but do I absorb those 2 extras into the last loop of 4 to make a final loop of 6 strands or keep the 4 strand loop and have a final loop of 2 strands?
    Thanks, and sorry for the confusing description of my dilemma!

  17. I would like to make it with more defined, pointy points, but I’m directionally chanllenged!
    When do I start incorporating the “Optional Short Rows”? Are they part of the Finishing stage? Say, at Row 1 of the Finish? I’m really not sure.

    Also, when it says “Rest row knit” does that mean the rest of the 109 sts?
    And does the “So forth” mean the next repeat will be 5 sts beyond, then 3 sts beyond and then what?
    If you would please clarify, I’d so appreciate it. Thank you.

    • I did not write the optional short rows, it was just something a nice Ravelry member did. I would say you start them just before the dropped stitches row. Rest row knit, means to knit to end of the row. so forth means to do the same thing to each section between the drops. That is my best guess.

      • Thank you Jessie.
        I would love to hear from anyone else that can shed some light?
        I will give it a try, and post a comment afterward, if what I try actually works.

        • @Nancv: I’m a fairly new knitter, love a challenge and usually my biggest challenge is reading a pattern! Have you figured this out? Could you share your ‘line-by-line’ directions – I can provide my email 🙂 I completed all the way to Row 178 & am stuck on the next steps (I want the pointed ends) THANKS!!

          • Hi Michele
            I’m also a fairly new knitter, but I had a look at knitting the short rows, and what I worked out is that they’re using a ‘Wrap and turn’ stitch. Essentially what they’re describing is adding a few extra rows of knitting around the stitches that you pull to create the ‘bone’ of the wing.
            So, that would mean for the first row, you w:
            slip 1 purl wise, knit 13, but then you would turn and wrap, and knit back to the edge, slip 1 purl wise and knit 9 stitches past the next ‘3 dropped stitches’, turn and wrap, knit 21 stitches, turn and wrap, ect.
            I would suggest looking up how to do a turn and warp if you haven’t done them before- youtube has a few good videos on the topic.
            I hope this helps.

          • Sorry I didn’t get back to you Michele. It did not work for me – I just finished it flat, which still turned out very beautiful – and had nothing further to contribute.

            But just this weekend I decided to give it another try. The short-rows are worked before the drop 3-sts portion.
            I used stitch-markers to identify the “dedicated” stitches that would be dropped in the Finishing portion of the instructions.

            Lauren’s directions helped tremendously (thank you Lauren), but it still did not give me the pointy ends. It “flared” out the sections, but did not give the desired look.
            Please note that I only did the 9-sts short rows as Lauren explained. Perhaps I needed to continue, but again, I didn’t know how to calculate the number of stitches for the w&t technique in subsequent rows, AND I wouldn’t know when to stop (is it 9-sts short rows, followed by 7-sts short rows? then what?…) plus, I was running out of the yarn.

            I do wish someone out there with experience would provide line-by-line instructions on getting that “dragon wing” look (pointy ends) — it would be so fabulous! (and much appreciated, thank you)

          • The one in the photos does not have the short rows (I have never tried that version, it is just something a reader wrote for those who want it). All I did was heavily block it to give it the points.

  18. Hi there.
    I was wondering if this was able to be knitted in the stockinette stitch, instead of the garter stitch? I was thinking about adding a bit of colour alongside the ‘ridges’, and to do that, I would be using a duplicate stitch, which doesn’t seem to work very well with a garter stitch.

    • You could, I think you may have to chain less stitches at a time to get it to work because stockinette stitches are taller.

  19. Any thoughts on a way to use another yarn weight with this? Is there a part of the pattern that could be repeated to add more segments maybe? I have a skein of hand dyed that I think would look amazing, but it’s fingering weight.

  20. Hey! I looked at the pattern graph and I don’t understand what Green marker and orange marker are? Can you explain that to me or is there something I have missed in your post about it?

    • Hi Nikki,
      The graph is a brilliant piece of work! The green and orange markers are just that. Place them as you go, starting with green markers as indicated on Row 117 and orange markers as indicated on Row 120. What you will find is that you will straight knit all the rows not highlighted until you find the row number highlighted in the particular color (say green). That’s the indication that on that row at every green marker you will do the KFB stitch. Then continue straight knitting until you are on the row highlighted in orange. On that row, you will do the KFB stitch at every orange marker. That’s it. Super simple… you don’t need to count x’s or dots. Trust the graph-pattern, it works!

  21. Hi Jesse, love the pattern and was successful in following it. I would like to try to do the ribs in an contrasting colour. I haven’t been able to determine which stitches I would do the contrasting colour in at the beginning. Is it possible for you to tell me how to cast on the stitches with the contrasting stitches in the correct place? Thanks for your help in this.

  22. Gauge is fine but it is way too short so I’m just going to keep adding rows following the increase pattern until it’s the length I want (hopefully it won’t be too wide by the end). Fingers crossed I don’t run out of the fabulous yarn I’m using (Stylecraft Cabaret – Storm).
    I’ll post a picture when it’s done…

  23. Hello! Thank you so much for the Pattern!! I LOVE it. The tutorials are GREAT!! I just have one question. I am big breasted . LOL . How many more stitches do you think I should add so It would hang nice. Thanks Again

  24. Is it possible to make this longer? Could I knit more rows. If I kept increasing. I am much bigger than the dummy in your photo.

  25. Dear Miss Jessie, My husband & I are archers.. he found a pattern about 15 years ago… I just checked the link & it is still viable…. Ren Fair & Rendezvous lovers as we are, we thought to share it with you… … also called The Archers Shawl… you can see why.. gun metal gray ?? Love Marianne (i feel like i won the Lottery by finding your wonderful site, ty, ty , ty!!!)

    • I am really enjoying this pattern! I also was working on this before you updated the pattern and I may have messed up.
      In this new pattern you kfb right after the marker. In the old one I have the marker, 1 knit stitch, and then the kfb.
      Did I mess up my counting or did the pattern change?
      Will this affect how the points/short rows turn out?

      • As long as the 3 sts in the middle of each set of markers is always knit and never increased or decreased, you should be fine with the increase just after those 3 or one st past.

  26. The short rows finally clicked with me! It was the chart that helped the most. I recommend adding stitch markers to mark either side of where the 3 dropped stitch sections are going to be. If you add them before you start the KFB increases it helps avoid as much counting, and for sure add them before starting the short rows.
    Add a “lifeline” to Row 174 to help in case you need to rip back.

  27. I’ve successfully completed this Dragon and it’s great! Thanks so much! I chose black which limited the hours that my eyeballs could decipher anything in the garter st at so I will try the next one in Just one question, why the long 2more tail? It’s never used.

  28. Hi Jessie,

    Having reached Row 115, I have realised that I have stupidly cast on with 36 stitches instead of 35!

    Is there way to rectify this with the rest of the pattern, or will I need to begin again (whilst wearing me glasses!).

    Many Thanks,


    P.S This is such a lovely pattern!

    • Easy fix! Just add it on to one side of the piece, so instead of having 2 sts on one of the sides, you’ll have 3. The edges get folded under when you block, so no one will know.
      If you can wait until the end of the week, I’m in the process of updating this pattern to make it even more clear and to add in short row shaping at the end. There will also be a video. Just make sure the straight section you just did is 15″ long. 🙂

  29. Hi Jessie,

    I was on row 125 when you updated the pattern, so now I’m a little lost. Do you still have the original pattern somewhere?

    I’m really enjoying knitting this BTW, the chain edges make my knitting look so much neater



    • Row 126: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k1, pm, k3, pm, k5, pm, k3, pm, kfb, k3, pm, k3, pm, kfb, k5, pm, k3, pm, k5, pm, k3, pm, k2. {43 sts}

      Row 127: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k past 4 markers, kfb, k past 2 more markers, kfb, k to end. {45 sts}

      Rows 128-129: Slip 1 purl wise with yarn in front, k to end.

      Continue with Row 17 of new pattern.

      If you’re having problems, watch the linked video. You’re picking up during the first part of the increase section.

      • Cheers Jessie,
        The videos really helped and I’ve just bound off! Looking forward to starting the blocking next which is a new technique for me so really glad it’s in your video.
        I suspect my niece will be asking for several in multiple colours when she sees this 🙂

        • Woo Hoo!! I have plans for a 2 color version, but I’m not sure how long it will take to get sampled and written. I’m a busy bee lately, 🙂

  30. Is there any chance there could be a typo in the gauge? I can only find yarn that has 19st and 24 rows, but your notes say 34 rows.

    I checked multiple labels at the yarn shop and could not find any yarn with those proportions. If it was 34 rows, the sts were much higher than 19.

    Am I misinterpreting something?


  31. Hi! First, thank you so much for this pattern, its so beautiful! I was, however, very stupid. I’ve run into a problem on the short rows. I watched the video for the first w&t, which didn’t include picking up the wrap, and ended up doing this for all the w&ts. I was wondering how much this might affect the look of this cowl? Since I really don’t want to rip out the whole 42 lines I have of it so far. (It doesn’t seem to be too bad right now, but I have no experience with short rows, so I really don’t know.) But I also want it to be pretty. What would you recommend? Thank you so much!

    • If you’re happy with how it looks, then leave it. I would just do the same thing for the rest of them, as it will look different if you change. The pick ups aren’t as noticeable in garter stitch.

      • Thank you so much! I’ll finish it with all the w&t wraps not picked up and knit together. Do you think that I can still do the Jacob’s ladder (As my sets of three are all still intact)? Thanks again!!

        • As long as your sets of 3 have only ever been knit (purl would be fine too), then they should drop just fine so you can do the Jacob’s ladder part. 🙂

      • Nevermind about my last reply- the Jacob’s ladder worked great! I’m so happy, thank you so much for the pattern!! I’m going to wear this everywhere now!

        • Woo Hoo!!! If you made a Ravelry project for it, please be sure to link the pattern and drop me a message so I can see it all done. 🙂


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